Posted from: http://feeds.apartmenttherapy.com/~r/apartmenttherapy/main/~3/Q50DCO0Ngvw/weekend-project-clean-sofa-chair-upholstery-235159

Think of both the minor and significant moments spent while sitting or laying on a living room sofa — you’ve met people for the first time, gotten lucky, spilled some marinara, cuddled with the dog, and fallen asleep while watching Game of Thrones. The couch is the epicenter of many lives, and it’s both loved and abused on a daily basis.

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Posted from: http://feeds.apartmenttherapy.com/~r/apartmenttherapy/main/~3/OlDLHUYBX2I/how-do-i-get-a-bleach-stain-out-of-an-off-white-carpet-235325

(Image credit: Apartment Therapy)

Q: I have a bleach solution that I use on my white carpet that erases any stain without even scrubbing. I tried using this solution in a different room and it turns out the carpet is not quite white, and now I have a bleach stain on my floor!

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Posted from: http://www.ikeahackers.net/2016/08/rustic-industrial-butcher-block-table-metal-base.html

IKEA items used: Numerar butcherblock and Karpalund underframe

I started off with a Numerar butcherblock table top which I purchased from IKEA about a year ago. It had been sitting in my garage ever since. The Numerar is not available anymore but you can purchase the Karlby. I wanted something large so I loved the size of the Numerar which is actually meant for a kitchen island. The dimensions are about 73 inches by 39 inches. This made it perfect for my kitchen since I wanted a large table with plenty of room for everyone.

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Now the reason the tabletop sat in my garage for so long was because I had no idea what base to get or build. I knew what I wanted it to look like but couldn’t find a base that wouldn’t break the bank. Then one happy day an IKEA catalog arrived on my doorstep and I saw the Karpalund underframe and knew my search was over.

Work began by first gathering what supplies I would need or thought I would need. I tested wood conditioner, application methods, finish colors, sanding methods and more all on the underside of my table. In the end all I needed to get this done was an orbital sander, foam brushes, 320 grit sandpaper, tack clothes, rags and Waterlox (to seal). And of course a table top and base.

Before I began any testing I needed to sand the factory finish off. This was an important step in that if you don’t sand it completely off the wood will never absorb the stain. Trust me on this since I found it out myself. Sand it with an orbital sander until you feel it is all off. Then sand it a bit more!

Once that was done I tested wood conditioner to see if I wanted to use it or not. I had done some research and was on the fence. In the end I think this is a personal preference. I liked the way the wood soaked up the stain without the wood conditioner. I wanted the grain in the wood to show. When I used the wood conditioner it seemed to not absorb as well. So no wood conditioner for me.

Next I tested stain colors. I had two that I was choosing between. I wanted the color of my table to be exactly what I imagined in my head. Dark, warm and the perfect shade of brown. Not orangey and not too dark to seem black. I stained two sections of the underside of my table with two coats of the stain I was testing and decided on Minwax Dark Walnut which is the stain on the bottom right square in the image below. You can see one coat on the left and two coats on the right. Please excuse my dirty garage floor. It became my workshop for about two weeks while I sanded, stained and sealed!

I was then ready to start on the actual table. I flipped it over (with some help since it weighs a ton!) and sanded down the entire top along with the four sides.

After sanding I wiped it off with a tack cloth. A couple times. I didn’t want any specks of wood stuck under the stain or finish. Tack clothes get this done. They are slightly tacky to the touch and will get every last bit of sawdust.

I then applied my first coat of stain. For all those that think staining butcherblock is a sin I was told I was nuts by my father in many different ways during the planning phase. His exact words when he first saw the dark yummy stain that had just been applied to the entire table were “You killed it.” Now that the table is done and in my kitchen he is on Team Stain Your Butcherblock A Dark Color since he recently told my sister she should do the exact same thing for her new desktop. True story.

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I had tested on the other side some different methods of doing this. Some sites suggested using a natural bristle brush. Others said a foam brush worked best. Still other recommended a sock wrapped in nylon. Of all three methods the foam brush was my favorite. It was inexpensive so I didn’t feel bad to dispose of it when I was done. I bought a couple for each coat of stain and sealer. The stain went on smooth and evenly. I don’t have any images of the process since I covered the table with stain as fast as possible. I then went back over the table and sides and wiped off any excess stain with a rag. I did sections at a time since I wanted the stain to absorb evenly.

I let the first layer dry about 4-6 hours and applied the second coat. The number of coats depends on how deep and rich you want your color. I wanted deep and warm so two coats got me that coverage and tone.

The next day I began applying Waterlox. I knew I wanted a great sealer that was food safe. I wasn’t using this as a cutting board or countertop. It is for our kitchen table. If a blueberry rolled off my kids’ plates I wanted to feel comfortable with them popping it in their mouth. I knew I would be applying a couple coats of Waterlox to get the finish I wanted. I used the gloss finish since I wanted to see the wood clearly. I had read in some different sources that using the satin finish creates a cloudy coat.

I applied the first coat using a foam brush. Waterlox is thin (think watery maple syrup) so you need to work fast and make sure there are no drips. I let the coat dry for 24 hours and then lightly sanded the entire table and sides with 320 grit sandpaper. This step was a little scary since I was sanding down a glossy and smooth surface. These were a couple bubbles which is where I focused my sanding. I had tested steel wool and although it does sand very lightly I did not like the small pieces of metal left behind. I didn’t want any of these pieces getting stuck under the following layer of Waterlox.

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After sanding I wiped it all down with a tack cloth to remove the remnants. Once it was clean and ready I applied my second coat of Waterlox. The Waterlox spread and filled in everywhere and covered perfectly. No evidence whatsoever that I had sanded the layer underneath. Once you sand it turns a bit white. Once you add the next coat that white sheen disappear. I poured the Waterlox from the container each time into a glass cup to avoid bubbles. It is pretty stinky so make sure you are in a well ventilated space. The garage worked really well for me since I kept the garage door open to the outside while applying each coat.

I applied a total of 4 coats of Waterlox with the foam brush with a 24 hour drying time between each coat. After the fourth coat I lightly sanded again and applied a thinner coat using a clean rag. This last coat had no bubbles whatsoever since it was applied with the rag. This was my last coat. I let the tabletop sit and “cure” in the garage for a week. We then brought it upstairs and attached it to the base in the kitchen.

For about $250 total I was able to put together a table that I’ve seen online for up to $1500. It cleans up easily with just some soap and water. Everyday I can wipe it down to get back to that glossy surface that was so worth the time it took. This was a long-term project that is finally complete and enjoyed on a daily basis in this house!

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

~ Christina Katos

The post Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

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Posted from: http://decor8blog.com/2016/08/26/decorate-party-book-trailer-giveaway/

In just a little over two weeks, the new decor8 book launches called Decorate For a Party published by Jacqui Small / Quarto and we’re so excited! To celebrate, we are giving away 5 copies of the new book to 5 lucky readers. I’m really psyched to present the official book trailer video below.

Decorate For a Party Book Trailer + Giveaway

To enter the contest: Watch the book trailer and leave a comment telling us about how you imagine the perfect party at home and let us know what you liked about the video too, it would be so nice to hear your response. Make sure you turn on the sound, the music is so beautiful!

As a bonus, you can also enter on our Facebook page or on my Instagram. See those posts there to learn how. You can enter up to three times (once on this blog, once on FB and once on IG).

Video Credits:
Videographer + Director: Koen Folkerts, Narratief // Creative Direction + Styling: Holly Becker // Location: Morten + Tinna Pedersen, Hannover, Germany
Models: Emma Pedersen, Nora Hartmann, Nanna Eriksen // Music: By Film Composer Steven Gutheinz – Isle (Licensed through Music Bed)

Contest closes on Friday, September 2 at 11:59pm European time.

Available for pre-order now! US: amzn.to/2bCz5HX // Barnes & Noble // UK: amzn.to/2bnzPBO // Germany: amzn.to/2bnzAqA

*Open to readers anywhere in the world, English version only. Please do not leave your email, home address or web address in the body of the comment, only in the allotted boxes. Winners will be announced here on Saturday, September 3rd AND contacted by email once comments close. Good luck everyone!

The post Decorate For a Party Book Trailer + Giveaway appeared first on decor8.

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Posted from: http://www.ikeahackers.net/2016/08/radiator-springs-house-bunkbed.html

IKEA items used: Kura bed, Dioder ledlight and Trofast as stairs

For our sons 3rd birthday we wanted to make a nice bed with enough space to play. He is crazy about Cars so we wanted a Radiator Springs theme :)

First I made a sketch of how I wanted the bunkbed to look and went shopping for items. My husband made a frame and closed it with wood. On top of the bed we made a frame and closed it with wood as well. Decorated with Route 66 sign and a station clock. I covered the ceiling with glow in the dark stars and moon from Etsy.

Assemble the KURA bed

Attach panels

Create the wall of the house

Create the wall of the house

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

~ Loes Berends

The post Radiator Springs house bunkbed appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

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Posted from: http://www.ikeahackers.net/2016/08/custom-built-fireplace-surround-mantel.html

Ikea items used: LACK bookshelf, BESTÅ bookshelf, VIKA ANNEFORS desk leg, Pax door(s)

I really needed to build a fireplace surround for an electric fireplace. I looked online for all kinds of information on various surrounds, and ultimately fell in love with some concepts that were pre-built to be hung on the wall. The problem was that I wanted it to have a custom built-in appearance and also accommodate a TV. I happened to have an extra BESTÅ bookcase and some unused VIKA ANNEFORS table legs. I purchased some PAX doors (at least I think they are Pax) from the As-is section for $20 apiece and some trim and 2×4′s from the local big box hardware store.

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The base is the BESTÅ bookcase, atop which sits opposing sides of 1 VIKA ANNEFORS table leg. I used heavy-duty construction adhesive as well as some extra L brackets I had lying around to reinforce the whole structure. I cut a PAX door to lay on top and 2 pieces to frame out either side. The left side actually comes out so that I can get behind the fireplace to manipulate the cables and access the power supply. Since building code requires that a fireplace surround may not enclose an electric outlet, the back of the BESTÅ portion is left open so that the power outlet is technically not enclosed. A LACK shelf sits on top of everything. I reinforced it with some wooden bracket that I found in the As-is section for $3 and anchored it directly into a wooden stud.

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The key to this design is not so much the surround as it was the choice of electric fireplace. This particular unit is a “zero clearance design”, meaning that you can put flammable building materials up to the frame of the fireplace unit. Otherwise, I would have had to use other materials for the fireplace surround. The only thing that is required is 2″ of clearance above the air intake on the fireplace unit, and I have left it open more than 3″ above the fireplace unit.

Custom built-in fireplace surround with mantel

~ Augustine Nguyen

The post Custom built-in fireplace surround with mantel appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

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